CHOW TIME!
I have tried multiple types of feed, from pellets to grains to fodder, and a mix of all of those. As of 12/2020, with a significantly reduced number of mouths to feed, I have also simplified what and how I feed.
Poultry: I feed Organic Layena layer pellets, and kitchen scraps, which I scatter under the rabbit hutches in their enclosure.
Rabbits: Purina Rabbit Chow, and sometimes loose hay after the goats have been fed.
Goats: My lovely pair get free choice orchard hay, loose minerals, and alfalfa pellets as needed (mostly provided during the winter when there's little forage and the girls can better appreciate this treat).
Poultry: I feed Organic Layena layer pellets, and kitchen scraps, which I scatter under the rabbit hutches in their enclosure.
Rabbits: Purina Rabbit Chow, and sometimes loose hay after the goats have been fed.
Goats: My lovely pair get free choice orchard hay, loose minerals, and alfalfa pellets as needed (mostly provided during the winter when there's little forage and the girls can better appreciate this treat).
Raising livestock is great - until you take that weekly or monthly shopping trip to the feed store and pay $25 for a 50# bag of feed...one for the chickens, one for the turkeys, one for the rabbits, two for the goats...Believe me, it adds up FAST!
After Andy financed the farm set up (buying materials & building rabbit hutches, etc), and occasionally helping me buy some of the livestock feed, it became necessary for the farm to fund itself, meaning that any money I needed to spend on the farm (buying breeding stock, feed, grooming supplies, medication), needed to have been generated by the farm itself, or by me (garage sales, craigslist sales, odd jobs). The farm has been sustained primarily on my work and creativity.
After Andy financed the farm set up (buying materials & building rabbit hutches, etc), and occasionally helping me buy some of the livestock feed, it became necessary for the farm to fund itself, meaning that any money I needed to spend on the farm (buying breeding stock, feed, grooming supplies, medication), needed to have been generated by the farm itself, or by me (garage sales, craigslist sales, odd jobs). The farm has been sustained primarily on my work and creativity.
On our mini farm's 1/4 acre, there are several mature trees (46, in fact) that need to be removed, so that we can set up the fencing and natural hedgerows for our grazing paddocks.
Once those trees are removed, there will be 3 paddocks, 20'+ wide, and roughly 60' deep.
Each paddock will have a natural hedgerow (natural fence of trees, shrubs, other plants) as a divider between each paddock, and on the far outside of each paddock.
Only one type of animal will occupy a paddock at a time, and when it's time to move say, the goats, into the next paddock, then the turkeys and chickens will be ushered into the paddock the goats just left, and the 3rd pasture will be allowed to rest until the goats are rotated back in to start the cycle over again.
This serves multiple purposes: each paddock gets a "break" from a specific species, no paddocks become overgrazed or bare of any particular plant or grass, rotating the species offers a break in the parasite cycle, and the various fertilizers from the different species' manure helps enrich the soil.
Once those trees are removed, there will be 3 paddocks, 20'+ wide, and roughly 60' deep.
Each paddock will have a natural hedgerow (natural fence of trees, shrubs, other plants) as a divider between each paddock, and on the far outside of each paddock.
Only one type of animal will occupy a paddock at a time, and when it's time to move say, the goats, into the next paddock, then the turkeys and chickens will be ushered into the paddock the goats just left, and the 3rd pasture will be allowed to rest until the goats are rotated back in to start the cycle over again.
This serves multiple purposes: each paddock gets a "break" from a specific species, no paddocks become overgrazed or bare of any particular plant or grass, rotating the species offers a break in the parasite cycle, and the various fertilizers from the different species' manure helps enrich the soil.
Whole grains play a major role in feeding all of my livestock; poultry, rabbits and goats.
Rabbits have their own special grain mix, plus some rabbit pellet feed.
Poultry and goats share their whole grain mix.
Before I started feeding mostly whole grains, I admit my budget dictated a lot of what our animals ate.
Although they were all allowed full access to pasture all day, the poultry often were fed spent grains from local breweries, which gave them the most awful acidic smelling feces.
The goats were fed commercial pellets, but it was difficult to make ends meet on my meager budget - commercial goat pellets add up incredibly fast, especially when each 50# bag of feed costs over $20, and each goat is about 120#, meaning at least 2 bags of just goat feed every other week or so. Ouch!
I tried different brands and protein percentages of commercial pellets - mostly this resulted in massive losses; pregnant and lactating does losing condition and struggling to regain condition even after their kits were weaned, smaller litter sizes, kits dying at all ages. It was a heart wrenching, miserable time. I simply couldn't afford the high quality or GMO free feeds, but I had to do something different.
I was fortunate to come across a rabbit feed buying group; they would all get together, pool their money, and buy very good quality Pfau rabbit feed by the pallet load, which brought the price down from $25/50# bag (as priced in all the local farm & feed stores), to under $18/50# bag - a HUGE savings! Feed pick up was once per month, so it was a lot of food to pay for, haul, and store at once, but well worth it. This worked really well for a while, and there was marked improvement in kit survival rates and doe condition, but I still felt like I could be doing something better.
Our farm consultant, Vestpocket Farmer, advised feeding a combination of whole grains and commercial pellets - I'm so glad we did! The change was gradual, but substantial. An older doe, who had declining litter size and vitality, held condition far better, larger litters, stopped abandoning her litters, and regained any lost condition much faster on this new feeding regimen - and it wasn't just her; all the rabbits showed improvement. Glossy, healthy coats, more vitality, better body condition.
In addition to the rabbits, when I started feeding whole grains to the poultry, I noticed an immediate difference. Their feces no longer had a strong sour odor; there was very little smell at all. They had more energy, and a beautiful gloss to their feathers.
The goats improved as well; their bodies filled out more, and they became playful again.
Since starting whole grains, my animals do best with mostly whole grains, and some supplemental feed or minerals:
Rabbits get a portion of commercial pellets, which contains the extra minerals they need.
Goats have a tray of baking soda, and a tray of loose minerals with copper, and almost half a bale of good quality grass hay free choice.
Poultry hunt for bugs and such in the pasture all day.
When there are eggs that fail in the incubator, dry shells from eggs we've eaten, kitchen scraps, lawn clippings - all of this goes out to the livestock, so that they can pick and choose what they want to eat.
During the warmer months, I'll begin growing and feeding fodder (sprouted grains) again, but when fodder isn't an option, the grain mixes are fantastic.
I buy my feed mix ingredients (except Black Oil Sunflower Seeds, aka BOSS) from X-Cel Feeds Inc in Tacoma.
I buy BOSS at either Coastal Farm and Ranch in Auburn, or Del's Feed and Farm Supply in Auburn, depending on who has the best price at the time.
Rabbits have their own special grain mix, plus some rabbit pellet feed.
Poultry and goats share their whole grain mix.
Before I started feeding mostly whole grains, I admit my budget dictated a lot of what our animals ate.
Although they were all allowed full access to pasture all day, the poultry often were fed spent grains from local breweries, which gave them the most awful acidic smelling feces.
The goats were fed commercial pellets, but it was difficult to make ends meet on my meager budget - commercial goat pellets add up incredibly fast, especially when each 50# bag of feed costs over $20, and each goat is about 120#, meaning at least 2 bags of just goat feed every other week or so. Ouch!
I tried different brands and protein percentages of commercial pellets - mostly this resulted in massive losses; pregnant and lactating does losing condition and struggling to regain condition even after their kits were weaned, smaller litter sizes, kits dying at all ages. It was a heart wrenching, miserable time. I simply couldn't afford the high quality or GMO free feeds, but I had to do something different.
I was fortunate to come across a rabbit feed buying group; they would all get together, pool their money, and buy very good quality Pfau rabbit feed by the pallet load, which brought the price down from $25/50# bag (as priced in all the local farm & feed stores), to under $18/50# bag - a HUGE savings! Feed pick up was once per month, so it was a lot of food to pay for, haul, and store at once, but well worth it. This worked really well for a while, and there was marked improvement in kit survival rates and doe condition, but I still felt like I could be doing something better.
Our farm consultant, Vestpocket Farmer, advised feeding a combination of whole grains and commercial pellets - I'm so glad we did! The change was gradual, but substantial. An older doe, who had declining litter size and vitality, held condition far better, larger litters, stopped abandoning her litters, and regained any lost condition much faster on this new feeding regimen - and it wasn't just her; all the rabbits showed improvement. Glossy, healthy coats, more vitality, better body condition.
In addition to the rabbits, when I started feeding whole grains to the poultry, I noticed an immediate difference. Their feces no longer had a strong sour odor; there was very little smell at all. They had more energy, and a beautiful gloss to their feathers.
The goats improved as well; their bodies filled out more, and they became playful again.
Since starting whole grains, my animals do best with mostly whole grains, and some supplemental feed or minerals:
Rabbits get a portion of commercial pellets, which contains the extra minerals they need.
Goats have a tray of baking soda, and a tray of loose minerals with copper, and almost half a bale of good quality grass hay free choice.
Poultry hunt for bugs and such in the pasture all day.
When there are eggs that fail in the incubator, dry shells from eggs we've eaten, kitchen scraps, lawn clippings - all of this goes out to the livestock, so that they can pick and choose what they want to eat.
During the warmer months, I'll begin growing and feeding fodder (sprouted grains) again, but when fodder isn't an option, the grain mixes are fantastic.
I buy my feed mix ingredients (except Black Oil Sunflower Seeds, aka BOSS) from X-Cel Feeds Inc in Tacoma.
I buy BOSS at either Coastal Farm and Ranch in Auburn, or Del's Feed and Farm Supply in Auburn, depending on who has the best price at the time.
Rabbit Feed3 parts rabbit pellets
4 parts whole barley 2 parts whole wheat 2 parts BOSS 1 part whole oats |
Poultry & Goat Feed3 parts whole oats
2 parts whole wheat 1 part whole barley 1 part BOSS |
Photo courtesy of Randy Coleman, The Fodder Room (facebook).
Fodder is growing grain seed to a grass-like state, and feeding while young. It is packed with nutrients and minerals, relatively easy to grow, and really versatile as it can be fed to all livestock, from horses on down to rabbits and poultry.
Depending on growing conditions, just 1.25 lb of seed can yield 8 lbs of finished fodder, and significant financial savings on feed.
Basic equipment includes shelving to put the fodder trays on, soaking bucket, fodder trays, grain seed, hose (preferably with a gentle watering setting, similar to rain), and water.
Fodder is growing grain seed to a grass-like state, and feeding while young. It is packed with nutrients and minerals, relatively easy to grow, and really versatile as it can be fed to all livestock, from horses on down to rabbits and poultry.
Depending on growing conditions, just 1.25 lb of seed can yield 8 lbs of finished fodder, and significant financial savings on feed.
Basic equipment includes shelving to put the fodder trays on, soaking bucket, fodder trays, grain seed, hose (preferably with a gentle watering setting, similar to rain), and water.
Websites & Videos |
Kits & Supplies |
I love watching TV shows that provide inspiration for our mini farm! I recently saw an episode of "Live Free or Die", in which a couple got a large water tank to raise minnows as protein snacks for their chickens. I thought this was a fantastic idea, and I plan on attempting it with either our 55 gallon drums, or with our large IBC totes.
EWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW! DISGUSTING! GROSS!
There. Now that we have the immediate and obvious reaction out of the way, let me explain why I overcame my knee-jerk shudder response and plan to start my own BSFL composting system.
Photo credit: Raising Black Soldier Fly Larvae, http://bsfl.wordpress.com/category/my-historyexperience-with-bsfl/
QUICK FACTS
Below information from UNC Institute for the Environment's "The Black Soldier Fly How-To Guide"
file:///C:/Users/Tiffany/Desktop/Heart's%20Quest%20Rabbitry/HQ%20FARM/BSF/bsfl_how-to_guide.pdf
Temperature: 77 F - 95 F. "The optimal temperature at which BSFL consume their food is around 95 °F. The minimum temperature for survival is 32 °F for no more than four hours, whereas the maximum temperature allowing survival is 113 °F. The larvae will become inactive at temperatures less than 50 °F and
temperatures higher than 113 °F, where their survival decreases dramatically. The best range of temperature for the larvae to pupate is from 77 to 86 °F. For mating purposes, optimal temperature is around 82 °F (Zhang, 2010)."
Diet: "BSFL can tolerate a widely varied diet. The BSFL feed on many kinds of organic waste such as table scraps, composting feed, and animal manure. They can also survive off of coffee grounds for a few weeks, but coffee grounds are not a sustainable diet. The caffeine from the coffee grounds helps to boost the metabolism and makes the grubs more active. A diet combining kitchen scraps and coffee grounds may help to boost their metabolism. The BSFL have a limited ability to process any animal products such as meat and fat."
Humidity: "Black soldier fly larvae develop most rapidly at 70 percent humidity. The rate of weight loss for the BSFL increases with decreasing humidity. The optimal humidity for black soldier fly mating is around 30 to 90 percent. It is very important to monitor humidity for captive rearing and breeding. We found that it is especially important to keep the grubs’ feeding medium at a proper moisture level—not so dry that it cements the grubs into the feed, and not so wet that they cannot breathe through the pores in their exoskeleton."
Additional Environmental Conditions: "BSFL do not survive well in direct light or in extreme dry or wet conditions. They prefer to be 8-9 inches deep in their food source. If they are too far below the surface, they will perform little bioconversion. Female flies avoid any sites that are anaerobic when trying to lay eggs."
MEETUP GROUP - 7/26/2014
ODOR CONTROL
Sweet PDZ (feed store)
Used coffee grounds/coffee chaff (local coffeehouse)
Fine Bentonite Clay (feed store/drilling company)
Lactobaccilus / bokashi (sp?) (buy or make your own - Earthineers)
EM (Effective/Efficient Microorganisms)
KEEPING WARM IN WINTER
Surround BSF compost box and lid with insulation, put light in box to help maintain warmth
Straw composting under/near BSF compost box
Use seed starting / heat mats / Christmas lights (rope lights) under BSF compost box
RECOMMENDED BOOKS/WEBSITES
"All Flesh Is Grass: Pleasures & Promises Of Pasture Farming" by Gene Logston
"The Small-Scale Poultry Flock: An All-Natural Approach to Raising Chickens and Other Fowl for Home and Market Growers" by Harvey Ussery"Sepp Holzer's Permaculture: A Practical Guide to Small-Scale, Integrative Farming and Gardening" by Sepp Holzer
NW Edibles (website - bentonite clay sealed ponds): http://www.nwedible.com/
MISC.
Zoo using BSF to compost all animal waste (source?)
Use BSF to compost human waste?
BSF larvae are 40% fat, too rich for fish food - cut with carbs and then feed to fish
There. Now that we have the immediate and obvious reaction out of the way, let me explain why I overcame my knee-jerk shudder response and plan to start my own BSFL composting system.
Photo credit: Raising Black Soldier Fly Larvae, http://bsfl.wordpress.com/category/my-historyexperience-with-bsfl/
- Though flies are considered reprehensible by most people, BSF in particular are an amazingly beneficial insect.
- Adults only live a few days, for the sole purpose of mating; they don't migrate between waste matter and humans or human food - this means that BSF, unlike house flies, and other types of flies, are NOT a vector for spreading disease.
- They are harmless; no biting, no stinging.
- The larvae are phenomenal composting machines, and can live for several weeks.
- During the larval life cycle, they can consume huge quantities of food waste or manure.
- The larvae produce residue/castings which can be used as a soil amendment, and their liquid waste (compost tea) can be fed to the vermicomposting/worm bins, and also to pools of algae/duckweed to augment fish food.
- When the larvae are done composting waste, they make an excellent meal or snack for poultry and fish, even used as fishing bait.
QUICK FACTS
Below information from UNC Institute for the Environment's "The Black Soldier Fly How-To Guide"
file:///C:/Users/Tiffany/Desktop/Heart's%20Quest%20Rabbitry/HQ%20FARM/BSF/bsfl_how-to_guide.pdf
Temperature: 77 F - 95 F. "The optimal temperature at which BSFL consume their food is around 95 °F. The minimum temperature for survival is 32 °F for no more than four hours, whereas the maximum temperature allowing survival is 113 °F. The larvae will become inactive at temperatures less than 50 °F and
temperatures higher than 113 °F, where their survival decreases dramatically. The best range of temperature for the larvae to pupate is from 77 to 86 °F. For mating purposes, optimal temperature is around 82 °F (Zhang, 2010)."
Diet: "BSFL can tolerate a widely varied diet. The BSFL feed on many kinds of organic waste such as table scraps, composting feed, and animal manure. They can also survive off of coffee grounds for a few weeks, but coffee grounds are not a sustainable diet. The caffeine from the coffee grounds helps to boost the metabolism and makes the grubs more active. A diet combining kitchen scraps and coffee grounds may help to boost their metabolism. The BSFL have a limited ability to process any animal products such as meat and fat."
Humidity: "Black soldier fly larvae develop most rapidly at 70 percent humidity. The rate of weight loss for the BSFL increases with decreasing humidity. The optimal humidity for black soldier fly mating is around 30 to 90 percent. It is very important to monitor humidity for captive rearing and breeding. We found that it is especially important to keep the grubs’ feeding medium at a proper moisture level—not so dry that it cements the grubs into the feed, and not so wet that they cannot breathe through the pores in their exoskeleton."
Additional Environmental Conditions: "BSFL do not survive well in direct light or in extreme dry or wet conditions. They prefer to be 8-9 inches deep in their food source. If they are too far below the surface, they will perform little bioconversion. Female flies avoid any sites that are anaerobic when trying to lay eggs."
MEETUP GROUP - 7/26/2014
ODOR CONTROL
Sweet PDZ (feed store)
Used coffee grounds/coffee chaff (local coffeehouse)
Fine Bentonite Clay (feed store/drilling company)
Lactobaccilus / bokashi (sp?) (buy or make your own - Earthineers)
EM (Effective/Efficient Microorganisms)
KEEPING WARM IN WINTER
Surround BSF compost box and lid with insulation, put light in box to help maintain warmth
Straw composting under/near BSF compost box
Use seed starting / heat mats / Christmas lights (rope lights) under BSF compost box
RECOMMENDED BOOKS/WEBSITES
"All Flesh Is Grass: Pleasures & Promises Of Pasture Farming" by Gene Logston
"The Small-Scale Poultry Flock: An All-Natural Approach to Raising Chickens and Other Fowl for Home and Market Growers" by Harvey Ussery"Sepp Holzer's Permaculture: A Practical Guide to Small-Scale, Integrative Farming and Gardening" by Sepp Holzer
NW Edibles (website - bentonite clay sealed ponds): http://www.nwedible.com/
MISC.
Zoo using BSF to compost all animal waste (source?)
Use BSF to compost human waste?
BSF larvae are 40% fat, too rich for fish food - cut with carbs and then feed to fish
Links
Brian Travis (aka Tarvus)
BSF & Aquaponics update "An update on my aquaponics, black soldier flies, and vermicomposting systems as of 11/15/2011"
BSF & Aquaponics update "An update on my aquaponics, black soldier flies, and vermicomposting systems as of 11/15/2011"
BSF, Vermiculture, Aquaponics - it all works together
Bug Barracks
BSF Farming Composting with Black Soldier Flies
Black Soldier Fly Farming Home Page
Black Soldier Fly Farming Home Page
Industrial prefab composter with BSF & redworms
"... you could reduce your labor and have a whole system (BSF & worms) in one footprint."
"... you could reduce your labor and have a whole system (BSF & worms) in one footprint."
6 Gallon Bucket
"...It works well enough, and the drain has given me no problems. Drawings are provided for both metric and imperial units."
"...It works well enough, and the drain has given me no problems. Drawings are provided for both metric and imperial units."
How to make a DIY superfly compost bin in 30 mins!
" Gavin Smith (our local beekeeping & compost guru) shows how to make a super-efficient soldier fly compost bin out of everyday components in 30 minutes - realtime!"
" Gavin Smith (our local beekeeping & compost guru) shows how to make a super-efficient soldier fly compost bin out of everyday components in 30 minutes - realtime!"
Grub Barrier for a Square Tote
"This link shows a barrier for a Round bucket: http://blacksoldierflyblog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=215. Here's one that works on a Square tote."
"This link shows a barrier for a Round bucket: http://blacksoldierflyblog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=215. Here's one that works on a Square tote."
Homemade Bin by chickenfeeder
" The persistent problem is with the filters on every design I have seen. The larva are so active and invasive that they literally tear up every filter I have seen or read about. Even the filterbug filter which had had no problems recently reported issues..."
" The persistent problem is with the filters on every design I have seen. The larva are so active and invasive that they literally tear up every filter I have seen or read about. Even the filterbug filter which had had no problems recently reported issues..."
Slanted Bucket Bin
"A slanted barrel does have it's advantages.
a) Your grubs get 50% more surface area to work with.
b) No need to construct an exit ramp.
c) Quick and easy to make."
"A slanted barrel does have it's advantages.
a) Your grubs get 50% more surface area to work with.
b) No need to construct an exit ramp.
c) Quick and easy to make."
Winston’s Bughopper
"Found this video link on an archived copy of a page of Tarvus's blog raisesoldierflies.com on web.archive.org"
"Found this video link on an archived copy of a page of Tarvus's blog raisesoldierflies.com on web.archive.org"
Archived video of the Bughopper (scroll almost 3/4 down the page)
Good tips are suggested just below the video.
Good tips are suggested just below the video.
Complete Self-Contained Unit (Breeding Enclosures)
Forum
Forum
Small Scale Indoor Breeding
Black soldier flies laying eggs and a new mass hatch of larvae
For more research, do a Search for 'black soldier flies' on www.permies.com, and see how others are using them!
I have recently read about a homemade BSF bin that is made from a food-grade plastic bucket. We occasionally have a few extra of these in Goodwill's Neighborhood Bistro kitchen, and I can ask the manager if I can take one to work on for the class. Has anyone looked at the bio compsoting bucket designs that are pictured on the Black Soldier Fly Blog (blacksoldierflyblog.com)?
I have questions... how do we keep them 'working' in our winter climate? I think that will be our biggest challenge. What are the tricky parts... larvae poop? liquid accumulation? combine w/ red worms? Here's the latest DIY site I have run across...the chickens can't wait ;)
http://gardenpool.org/beneficial-insects/black-soldier-fly-composter-automatic-chicken-feeder
I'd suggest doing a Search for 'black soldier flies' and/or 'bsf' at permies.com forums for some interestingn first hand experiences.
Use your Meat Waste to grow chicken feed soldier larvae with a design using 5 gallon buckets on permies.com
http://www.permies.com/t/23904/bugs/black-soldier-flies-Pacific-Northwest
I have recently read about a homemade BSF bin that is made from a food-grade plastic bucket. We occasionally have a few extra of these in Goodwill's Neighborhood Bistro kitchen, and I can ask the manager if I can take one to work on for the class. Has anyone looked at the bio compsoting bucket designs that are pictured on the Black Soldier Fly Blog (blacksoldierflyblog.com)?
I have questions... how do we keep them 'working' in our winter climate? I think that will be our biggest challenge. What are the tricky parts... larvae poop? liquid accumulation? combine w/ red worms? Here's the latest DIY site I have run across...the chickens can't wait ;)
http://gardenpool.org/beneficial-insects/black-soldier-fly-composter-automatic-chicken-feeder
I'd suggest doing a Search for 'black soldier flies' and/or 'bsf' at permies.com forums for some interestingn first hand experiences.
Use your Meat Waste to grow chicken feed soldier larvae with a design using 5 gallon buckets on permies.com
http://www.permies.com/t/23904/bugs/black-soldier-flies-Pacific-Northwest